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Hermann Radzig-Radzyk painted in Silesia a hundred years ago: Neumannskoppe with Maria-Schnee-Kirche

In May/June 2023, I was in Silesia, looking for some places, where my grandfather Hermann Radzyk put up his easel a hundred years ago (as an artist he painted under the name of Hermann Radzig-Radzyk).

One painting I was looking for was the “Neumannskoppe” of 1919 (belongs to my sister and me). 

I know title and year from a letter of my mother to her best friend. I acquired the painting from a friend of the son of my mother’s best friend.

I solved the puzzle end of May 2023: To paint the “Neumannskoppe”, my grandfather had put his easel up at Rudolfswaldau, now Sierpnica. The mountain Neumannskoppe has become Niczyja. The wooden church with the baroque belfry is called Maria-Schnee-Kirche (Kościół Matki Bożej Śnieżnej, i.e. “Our Lady of the Snows”). 

I was at Sierpnica end of May 2023 to see, what the church looks like today, and I took the photo from where the easel was (approximately).

Today the church is hidden behind trees.

While taking my photos, I met Dziki who lives near the church. He gave me his winter photo. The trees without leaves allow to see more of the church that my grandfather painted.

Source: Photo taken by Dziki Domek.

Now let me tell you, how I solved the puzzle to find the easel for the painting “Neumannskoppe”.

 

Where is the Neumannskoppe?

I started by looking for the Neumannskoppe. I suspected, the Neumannskoppe is a mountain somewhere in Silesia. I entered “Neumannskoppe” in google maps – no result. I continued googling and googling “Neumannskoppe” combined with various terms… and after a lot of googling, I found this old German-Silesian advertisement for the “Grenzbaude im Eulengebirge” (boundary mountain hut in the Owl Mountains). 

The advertisement says that the Grenzbaude is located between the “Neumannskoppe” and the “Hohe Eule” (1). Hence the “Neumannskoppe” is not far from the “Hohe Eule”. Googling “Hohe Eule”, I found the name “Wielka Sowa”, which is the highest mountain in the Góry Sowie (Owl Mountains). 

Conclusion: The church with the Neumannskoppe is not far away from the Wielka Sowa. I asked Google to show me the churches around Wielka Sowa and  I clicked on all of them.

At Sierpnica, I found the church that my grandfather had painted. It is now called Kościół Matki Bożej Śnieżnej, in German Maria-Schnee-Kirche.

Source: Marius Tyski, Church of our Lady of the Snows, Instagram, appeared in google maps about a year ago, in the meantime I can no longer find it there. 

This is the location of the Kościół Matki Bożej Śnieżnej on my hiking map of the Owl Mountains, south west of the Wielka Sowa. 

Source: Compass Góry Sowie, mapa turystyczna, scala 1:35’000

But where exactly is the Neumannskoppe? It must be either the peak Sokól or the peak Niczyja – this puzzle remained. I solved it at the hotel Lesny Dvor at Wolibórz (Volpersdorf) – we stayed here a few days. The Lesny Dvor had a German map whith the Neumannskoppe – and comparing with my hiking map, it becomes clear that the Neumannskoppe is now called Niczyja.  

Source: German map that hangs in the hotel Lesny Dvor at Wolibórz

Niczyja (“nobody’s mountain”) is the approximate translation of  “Neumannskoppe” (“new man’s mountain”).

My grandparents must have spent their vacation at Rudolfswaldau in 1919, when their daughter (my mother) was 3 years old. My grandfather took his easel, canvas and colours with him to paint the Maria-Schnee-Kirche in front of the Neumannskoppe. About a hundred years later, in May 2023, I was here as well – at Sierpnica – and solved the puzzle.

 

The church Lady of our Snows (Kościół Matki Bożej Śnieżnej) is a historical treasure

The church Kościół Matki Bożej Śnieżnej was built out of wood in the 16th century. It is one of many “Schrotholzkirchen” in Silesia (see https://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Liste_der_Schrotholzkirchen_in_Niederschlesien). 

It was a protestant church. After the War of 30 years, after 1648, it became a catholic church (the area belonged to catholic Austria at that time). In the 17th century, the tower burnt down, and the new baroque tower was built.

I could not enter the church,  I could just look through the window and capture the interior with the altar…

… and the benches.

Visiting more wooden churches or Schrotholzkirchen might be another interesting target in Silesia. 

 

Meeting today’s Silesians while wandering off the beaten tracks looking for the easel of my grandfather

When looking for the places, where my grandfather put up his easel, I usually wander off the beaten tourist tracks. At Sierpnica, I walked uphill on an unpaved path and through the adjoining meadow to get the view of the church from above. The tourists that visit the church, walk around it and leave again. They do not walk uphill to places, where they can hardly see the church. A car comes on the unpaved path and stops. “What are you doing HERE”, the driver asks me in fluent English. “Look at this”, and I show him my photo of my grandfather’s painting.  “Yes, this IS the church,” he says. We exchange addresses and he sends me the winter photo of the church. Later, I enjoy the hospitality of Dziki. He invites me to his house and family. He shows me his photos from German times before 1945, when Sierpnica was still called Rudolfswaldau. He is proud of the German photos decorating his house. The German past is an integral part of his house.

This is not the only house in Silesia that keeps memories of the German past. Karolina Kuszyk wrote the beautiful book “In den Häusern der anderen – Spuren deutscher Vergangenheit in Westpolen” (2). She  describes  places, buildings and objects that the Germans – expelled after 1945 – left behind and that the Poles took over, most of them expelled from the eastern districts taken away from Poland in 1945. Touching biographies on both sides. Years later Germans return to see the places of their early youth or of their ancestors. Sometimes they find the houses and objects left behind 50-60 years ago and sometimes friendships arise between the former and the new owners. 

My grandfather opens my eyes for Silesia from a hundred years ago, and following him opens doors to experience Silesia today.

 

Notes

  • Footnote (1) More precisely, the Grenzbaude is located on the top of the pass between Neumannskoppe and Hohe Eule. It is called “Grenz”-Baude or “boundary hut”, because it is located on the boundary between the districts Glatz (now Klodzko) and Waldenburg (now Walbrzych). The advertisement says, it takes 50 minutes to walk to the Bismarck tower on the Hohe Eule. The Grenzbaude is proud to have electrical light and central heating.   Above the Grenzbaude was the Grosssprungschanze or great ski jump. 
  • Footnote (2) Original title: “Poniemieckie”. German title translated to English “in the houses of the others – tracks of the German past in West Poland”, christoph-links-Verlag Berlin 5. Auflage 2023.
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My dream of a lifetime: Aachen and Charlemagne’s Cathedral

On November 10th 2023, I visit Charlemagne’s octagonal Cathedral (the Aachen Cathedral). I sit inside the octagon and look into the cupola. To see this has been my dream of a lifetime.

I breathe in the atmosphere enjoying the perfect harmony of the octagon. Today is 11/10/2023. Was it not 13 years ago that Ernst and I got married, on 11/10/2010? Yes, right, exactly 13 years ago. — I light a candle for Ernst. He is in my heart. 

Now, I explore the architecture of the Cathedral of Charlemagne. 

 

The Cathedral view from outside 

When I approached Charlemagne’s cathedral, I was surprised. Where is the octagonal building that I have been looking forward to seeing? Oh, I understand, it almost disappears between larger buildings of gothic appearance surrounding it. The steep roof on the octagon looks a bit like a cream topping. 

I had expected more resemblance to the abbey chapel of Ottmarsheim in the Alsace, inaugurated in 1049, two hundred years after Charlemagne’s Aachen Cathedral; Aachen was the model for Ottmarsheim. It is somehow Aachen’s “little sister”.

Around 800, Charlemagne conceived his cathedral as a modest and elegant building. This is what it looked like originally and what Rudolf von Altenburg (an ancestor of the Habsburg family) took as the model for Ottmarsheim.

 
Source: Walter Mars, p. 20

 When travelling to Rome, Charlemagne saw San Vitale in Ravenna. 

San Vitale was built under the Byzantine Rule of Justinian and was inaugurated by Bishop Maximianus in 547 AD. The mosaic shows Justinian (in the middle) and Bishop Maximianus (labeled).

San Vitale was an important inspiration for Charlemagne. Since Roman times no such domed structure building had been completed north of the Alps. 300 years after San Vitale, Charlemagne wanted to change that, and he hired craftsmen from Lombardy to have his Cathedral built, the first domed structure since Roman times north of the Alps.  

He completed his octagonal Cathedral, and today it almost disappears between the mainly gothic extensions and under the baroque roof hood (“the cream topping”) that was added after Aachen’s city fire of 1656. 

 

 

Charlemagne’s Cathedral inside – original and today

The interior of Charlemagne’s octagon is richly decorated today. This is the result of the renovations in Neo-byzantine style around 1900. 

It seems to me that the renovators took up the atmosphere of San Vitale that has also been richly decorated, as my photo shows.

However, Charlemagne had taken a more modest approach. Whitewhashed columns interrupted by slim black columns and decorated with a gilt bronze fence.  

Source: Walter Mars, p. 50 (this is what the historians think the octagon looked like after having been built)

I like the elegance of the original. Ottmarsheim is closer to the original not only outside, but also inside. The whitewashed walls and the open brickwork give it solemnity. 

Source:  Wörner and Wörner-Hasler, p. 19.

The original mosaic in the cupola of the Aachen Cathedral showed Christ on the throne, surrounded by the Twenty-Four Elders. They had left their seats to deposit their crowns in front of Christ.  

Source: Walter Mars, p. 51, drawing  by Ciampini made in 1699

Around 1700, the original mosaics were eliminated and the church interior became baroque. 

In 1881, the baroque elements were removed and the cupola was decorated with the Neo-byzantine mosaic. 

The artists kept the theme of the original: The Twenty-Four Elders stand around Christ and deposit their crowns. However there are no seats next to the Elders and the mosaic is more abundant.

Before the German emperor William II intervened in 1900, the interior of the Cathedral resembled the modest original of Charlemagne. 

Source: Walter Mars, p. 53

After 1900, Emperor William II of Germany added the marble covering to the columns, arches and walls.  In addition, he engaged his favourite artist Hermann Schaper to create mosaics immediately below the cupola. He added more men dressed in white. What an abundant Neo-byzantine decoration. Not at all, what Charlemagne had in mind.

Mars writes that the visitor is overwhelmed by the Wilhelmine pomp and will have difficulties to find the former dignity of the Carolingian original. I can only agree with Walter Mars (Walter Mars, p.47).

 

The choir – the most prominent Gothic addition to Charlemagne’s Cathedral

The most prominent Gothic addition to the Charlemagne’s octagonal Cathedral  is the choir (1355-1414).

Building it required to destroy the original rectangular choir (see dotted line) and part of the octagon.

Source: Walter Mars, p. 83.

The choir with the large blue leaded windows creates the solemn atmosphere that I love in Gothic churches.

Two shrines decorate the choir: The Karlsschrein (shrine of Charlemagne, between 1182 and 1215) and the Marienschrein (shrine of Mary, 1238). The eagle lectern is from the 15th century.

However to me, the choir seems like a foreign body to he original octagon. Furthermore the choir is locked for visitors that have not paid for the guided tour. I am not a friend of guided tours and feel somewhat unwelcome here.  

I enter the other additions around the octagon, but they all leave me somewhat unimpressed. In my opinion, they do not go well with Charlemagne’s octagon Cathedral.  

When leaving the cathedral, I conclude that the first emperor of Europe, Charlemagne, has created a very elegant cathedral, and the last emperor at Europe, William II, has overdone the renovation in Neo-byzantine style.

I say good-bye to Charlemagne who unifies the German Eagle with the French fleur de Lys on his reliquary bust, created in 1350 and exposed in the Aachen Cathedral Treasury. 

I will soon return to the abbey chapel of Ottmarsheim. It is just a half an hour’s drive from my home. 

 

Sources: 

 

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Discovering Silesia: Karpacz with its churches and with Sniezka

In May 2023, we spent a week in Silesia, in “our” castle Staniszów near Jelenia Góra. From here, it was a short car ride to Karpacz, formerly called Krummhübel. Many German artists had been here at the end of the 19th century and in the beginnings of the 20th century.  Carl Ernst Morgenstern taught plein-air painting around Karpacz. Theodor Fontane wrote a criminal story for Krummhübel.

 

Karpacz centre with two churches from around 1900

The centre of Karpacz (Krummhübel) is a touristy place – this is the main street. 

There are two churches here, both built around 1900.

The church of the Holy Heart of Jesus, (Kirche des heiligsten Herzens Jesu, Kościół Najświętszego Serca Pana Jezusa) was inaugurated as a protestant church in 1908. 

A  nice painted wooden ceiling inside. The church became catholic in 1945.

The church Visitation of our Lady (Mariä Heimsuchung, Parafia Nawiedzenia Najświętszej Maryi Panny) was inaugurated in 1910, and the nave was rebuilt after 1945.

A painted wooden ceiling here as well.

Also this church was protestant and became catholic in 1945.

 

Wang church (Kościół Wang)

The attraction of Karpacz is the wooden Wang church. 

The church was built in Vang in southern Norway in the 12th or 13th century. In the 19th century, this church became too small for the congregation. It was decided to sell the church and use the money earned to build a larger new church. A painter from Norway, professor Jan Christian Dahl, lived at Breslau at that time, and he convinced the Prussian king Friedrich Wilhelm IV to buy the church for 427 Mark. The church was disassembled and shipped to Berlin. The king had intended to rebuild the church on the Pfaueninsel at Berlin, but then changed his plans. Count Leopold Christian von Schaffgotsch donated land between Krummhübel (Karpacz) and the Schneekoppe (Śnieżka), at Brückenberg (now Karpacz Górny). The church was reassembled here and inaugurated in summer 1844.

Two lions guard the entrance to the church.

Inside, viking faces frame the door; they may be warriors with split tongues. 

This is the choir…

… with the baptismal font (Saint John in his fur coat baptizes Christ).

The column shows Daniel in the lion’s den.

This door leads to a corridor around the nave. 

The Vang church has become THE cultural landmark of Karpacz.

 

Hiking from Polana to Słonecznik, with a partial view of the Śnieżka

Behind the Wang church, you have to pay an entrance fee for the Karkonosze park, which is a nature reserve now. A path leads to Polana, a meadow that I suspected was the place, where my grandfather had painted the Schneekoppe (painting owned by Heimatverein Kleinmachnow).

But, when reaching the meadow Polana, it becomes clear, this is not the place, where my grandfather’s easel was. 

I follow the path uphill and can sometimes see the Schneekoppe between the trees.

I reach one of the many granite blocks scattered around here… and I am not alone. The Poles enjoy hiking.

I reach another granite rock, the Słonecznik. A beautiful view into the Hirschberg valley. 

The Schneekoppe(Sniezka) can be seen from the Słonecznik as well. 

I walk back down.

On the meadow Polana, I look for the place, where the  former mountain hut Hasenbaude once was, but it seems that nothing remains of it.

No, I my grandfather’s easel was not here… may be it was south of the Schneekoppe (Sniezka), on the other side?

Back at home, I solve the puzzle. The easel WAS south of the Schneekoppe, above Petzer or Pec pod Sněžkou. I could identify Petzer and  the mountains on the painting and I believe, the easel stood at the Lenzenberg, now called Zahradky. 

There is something more to explore! The Giant Mountains in the Czech Republic. I will return!

 

Sources:

  • Plates on the churches
  • Description of the Vang church, handed out in the church.
  • Tomasz Torbus, “Polen – Reisen zwischen Ostseeküste und Karpaten, Oder und Bug”, Dumont Kunstreiseführer, Ostfildern 2011
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Discovering Silesia: Cieplice Zdrój or Bad Warmbrunn

In May 2023,  I spend a week near Jelenia Góra in Silesia exploring the surroundings. One day we visit Cieplice Zdrój (Bad Warmbrunn). 

In the 17th/18th century, Bad Warmbrunn became a well-known health resort in Silesia. In the 17th century, the queen of Poland, wife of Sobieski, stayed here with her entourage of 1500 persons. In the 19th century, Bad Warmbrunn was one of the most famous resorts of Germany, visited by artists, high nobility, statesmen and even by the (later) US president  John Quincy Adams (1825-1829).  

The main centre is called Plac Piastowski. Spa guests and day tourists stroll along. There are souvenir shops and inviting restaurants. 

The houses are well maintained. In the background we can see the red tower of Saint John’s church.  

In the church of Saint John the Baptist, the high altar has been painted by Michael Willmann (1687); he is sometimes called the Raffael of Silesia. His painting shows Maria Assumption. 

Already in 1281 the Knights Hosipitallers (Johanniter) had founded a hospice that was probably visited by guests for healing.  

The Schaffgotsch acquired Warmbrunn in 1381 and settled here in 1400. Their castle, completed in 1788 in early neoclassical style, dominates the Plac Piastowski. 

Today it is part of the technical university of Wroclaw. 

Legend tells us that in 1175, a deer  cured his wounds at a warm fountain, after having been shot by hunters. The hunters built a hunting lodge, and this is how the spa resort originated (by legend).

Next to the palace, this cheerful “deer couple” may remind of the legend. They seem to have recovered well in Cieplice. 

Next to the Schaffgotsch Palais is the entrance to the spa gardens.

We enter, pass by the Pawilon Edward,…

… and enjoy the romantic corners. 

The visual axis to the Schneekoppe or Sniezka has been beautifully set up with fountains and benches.

For several centuries high nobility and statesmen have strolled along the alleys of this park. We meet some of them….

… dressed up like a hundred years ago.

We return to the Plac Piastowski and have a delicious ice cream.

At Cieplice, I notice again that the Polish fill the German past of Silesia with their life and take care of it. 

 

Sources:

  • Frank Schüttig, “Riesengebirge”, Trescher Verlag, Berlin 2022
  • Malgorzata Ulrich-Kornacka, “Niederschlesien”, Via Nova, Wroclaw 2018
  • Dieter Schulze, “Polen der Süden”, Dumont Reisehandbuch, Osfildern 2020
  • Tomasz Turbos, “Polen”, Dumont Kunst-Reiseführer, Hamburg 2011
  • Arne Frank, “das schlesische Elysium, Burgen, Sclösser, Herrenhäuser und Parks im Hirschberger Tal”, Potsdamer Bibliothek östliches Europa Kulturreisen 2004.
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Discovering Silesia – On the Szrenica, the mountain that carries frost

In May 2023, I am in Silesia, where we spend one week in the castle Staniszów to explore the area around Jelenia Góra.

Now we spend a day on the Szrenica above Szklarska Poręba.

 

Szklarska Poręba is surrounded by mountains

Szklarska Poręba is a resort surrounded by mountains, the main landmarks being the Szrenica (right) and the Śnieżne Kotły (left). 

The Śnieżne Kotły (“Schneegruben” or “Snow Pits”) still carry a bit of snow in the western snow pit. The pits are in geological terms “cirques” (in German: “Kare”) left by a glacier.

Chair lifts and ski lifts take hikers and – in winter – skiers up to the Szrenica, as the straight lines in the forests indicate.  

Szrenica is called “Reifträger” in German. Both in German and in Polish, this mountain carries frost (“Reif” and “szron” mean “frost”).  

German painters have been inspired by the panorama around Szklarska Poręba (Schreiberhau). In summer 1920, they founded the Lukasgilde (guild of Saint Luke) and built the Lukasmühle as a place to meet and to exhibit their paintings. 

Georg Wichmann is one of the founders of the Lukasgilde.

 

Source: Hans Wichmann, “Georg Wichmann 1876-1944)”, Bergstadtverlag Wilhelm Gottlieb Korn 1996.

In winter 1922/23, my grandfather Hermann Radzyk was at Schreiberhau (Szklarska Poręba) and painted the Reifträger (Szrenica) with the church Kościół pw. Bożego Ciała (Corpus Christi).

Source: Polska.org – this painting has in the meantime disappeared from the website polska.org.

In addition, Hermann Radzyk painted the Schneegruben with the same church in the foreground.

Source: My own photo taken in the house of the grand-son of a friend of my grand-father.

 

Exploring the Szrenica with the gorgeous view

We take the chair lifts to the Szrenica – there are two sections, one after the other. 

A special experience. The small chairs  are hard to sit on and they move in “slow motion”. Slowly, but safely, we arrive on the top.

The view of Lower Silesia with Szklarska Poręba in the foreground is gorgeous.

We walk up to the top view point.

We look west, where a hiking path follows the border between Poland and the Czech Republic.

We look south east, where we can see granite rock formations. They are called Svinské kameny (“Pig stones”). They have a Czech name, as they stand already in the Czech Republic. Such granite rocks can be found all over in the Giant Mountains. In German these rocks are called “Wollsackverwitterung”, in English “spheroidal weathering”.

We look east to the Śnieżne Kotły. The former mountain hut (Schneegrubenbaude, it can  be seen from far) is now a radar station (Radiowo-Telewizyjny Ośrodek Nadawczy – RTON Śnieżnymi Kotłami). 

We look north towards the Isergebirge (Góry Izerskie), Szklarska Poręba and Lower Silesia.  

We have a snack at the Reifträgerbaude (Schronisko na Szrenicy)…

… and look at the fotos. They show that, indeed, the Reifträger or Szrenica does carry frost in winter. 

It must be cosy in the hut, when it is that frosty outside.

On a panorama walk,…

… we reach the shelter Hall Szrenicka located below the top.

We return to the chairlift station,…

… admiring some more of these rock stones (these are called Końskie Łby or horses). This is, where the ski run “Lolobrygida” starts – what a name for a ski run. 

We return to “our” castle Staniszów and enjoy another excellent dinner.

 

Sources:

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Discovering Silesia: Across the Riesengebirge, the Zackenbahn connects countries

In May 2023, we spend a week in the castle Staniszów near Jelenia Góra and go for excursions.

 

The Zackenbahn

Now we take the Zackenbahn. Reopened in 2010, the Zackenbahn crosses the Riesengebirge (Karkonosze) connecting Poland (Jelenia Góra) with the Czech Republic (Kořenov and farther). 

Up to the highest point Jakuszycke, the train follows the river Kamiena. In German times, the Kamiena was called “Zacke”. Hence the name “Zackenbahn”.

At the train station of Jelenia Góra (Hirschberg, “Deer Mountain”), this cheerful animal wishes us a good ride on the Zackenbahn. 

 

At Kořenov 

After having crossed the Riesengebirge, this somewhat lonely train station welcomes us at Kořenov …

… with charming children’s drawings.

We find a small restaurant, where we have a drink.

 

Back to Poland and Szklarska Poręba Górni

After having recovered in the restaurant of Kořenov , we take the modern Regio Spider… 

… to return to Poland….

… reaching the highest point of 882m at Jakuszyce (Jakobstal). From the Schienenradler, I learn that this is a popular area for cross country skiing.

At Szklarska Poręba Górni (Oberschreiberhau), we have to change trains. From the Czech “Regio Spider” to the Silesian Polish train ” Koleje Dolnośląskie” . 

 

The old train station of Szklarska Poręba Górni has been beautifully renovated (2021).

 

The history of the Zackenbahn – from connecting Germany with Austria to connecting the Czech Republic with Poland

Photos at the train station of Szklarska Poręba Górni tell us about the history of the Zackenbahn.

The Zackenbahn was inaugurated in 1902. At that time, it connected German Prussia (Schlesien, Hirschberg) with Austria (Böhmen, Bad Wurzelsdorf, and farther).

The construction was an engineering achievement, requiring tunnels and trenches. The signal post in the Moltkefels Einschnitt (cut) controlled the entrance to Niederschreiberhau (Szklarska Poręba Dolna). It was the highest signal post of Germany.

In 1927, the Zackenbahn celebrated its 25th anniversary. At that time, it connected Czechoslovakia with Germany (Prussia, Silesia). The train had been electrified. 

It was in the 1920’a that my grandfather spent his vacation at Niederschreiberhau and painted the “Kirchberg mit dem Reifträger” (my blog tells about that). 

At the train station of Oberschreiberhau, there was even a cinema. It has been reopened now.

After 1945, Silesia no longer belonged to Germany. It was integrated to Poland. The train connection at the border of Czechoslovakia and Poland was eliminated and remained closed until 2010. 

In 2010, the connection across the border was reopened, now connecting Poland (Jelenia Góra) and the Czech Republic (Kořenov; this relates to the German name “Wurzeldorf”, kořen=Wurzel).  The train is now popular, “our” train was fully occupied. 

In 2022, the Zackenbahn celebrated 120 lat – or 120 years, as the photos at the station of Szklarska Poręba Górni tell us.

 

Back to Jelenia Góra

We wait at the carefully restored station of Szklarska Poręba Górni to take the train along the Zacke back to Jelenia Góra. 

Shortly before reaching the train station of Jelenia Góra, we cross the river Bober (Bobra) (seen from below).

What an engineering achievement, what a beautiful landscape, what a exceptional story. And how good to see that Polish Silesia takes care of the German heritage.

Take a ride with the Zackenbahn by watching this charming video published by German TV (SWR) under the title of “Eisenbahnromantik”: https://www.ardmediathek.de/video/eisenbahn-romantik/die-zackenbahn-von-tschechien-nach-polen-ein-zug-verbindet/swr/Y3JpZDovL3N3ci5kZS9hZXgvbzE3MzY2MzU.

 

Sources:

 

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Discovering Silesia: The fairy tale castle Staniszów

In May 2023, we spent one week at the fairy tale castle Staniszów (Stornsdorf). A welcoming place located  just a few kilometers south of Jelenia Góra. The castle was built by a descendant from the German family Reuss in the late 18th century. The castle has been restored by the Didza family that also manages the hotel.

 

The castle has the charm of fairy tales

The main castle is “dressed in green” and integrates in the green park. Behind the castle is the statue of Cleopatra.

Nearby is the Bachelor House. 

Another building hosts the spa area. I benefitted from the 20m long pool to swim about 1km every day and then recover in the jacuzzi. 

In the evening, we enjoyed delicious meals in the cosy restaurant. The cook is talented. 

Breakfast was also excellent… however, this decoration is unusual. It has been set up by my friend for my birthday – thank you. 

The corridors in the main building are decorated with, as I assume, portraits of the noble family Reuss.

There is also a painting of a mountain that does not really belong here.  

You have surely guessed, it is the Matterhorn in Switzerland. The Giant Mountains (Riesengebirge, Karkonosze)) have their own landmark, the Schneekoppe.   

 

The beautiful park with the view of the Schneekoppe

The castle park has been beautifully restored. Enjoy the visual axis to the Schneekoppe (Śnieżka) from the chairs!  

The visual axis is just behind the main castle building, near Cleopatra.

The park is large. Romantic ponds invite to take photos with the trees mirroring in the water,… 

… even crossed by a bridge.

Benches invite to have a rest.

You can make a full day’s programme here, discovering more ponds in this extensive landscape garden.

For me, it was the most beautiful park that I found around Jelenia Góra (Hirschberg). 

Whenever returning to this area in Silesia, I will surely stay again in the castle Staniszów. 

 

Sources:

 

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Discovering Silesia: Walking to Siedlęcin with its unique frescoes

May 2023 in Silesia, in the Giant Mountains. We walk from Jelenia Góra north west to Siedlęcin to see the unique medieval frescoes in the tower house. 

 

The gorgeous view from the top of the “mushroom”

On top of the “city mountain”, called Wzgórze Krzywoustego, there is a tower.

It is called Grzybek or “little Mushroom”.

From the top we have a gorgeous view of the Giant Mountains.

We can identify the Schneekoppe (Snezka) and the Schneegruben (Śnieżne Kotły) in the haze.

 

Walking along the Bóbr river (Bober)

The train from Jelenia Góra to Kořenov in Czechia whistles loudly and shows us the way to the train viaduct crossing the Bóbr river. 

The train crosses the Giant Mountains up to Czechia (Korenov). It is from the early 20th century and has been reinstalled in 2010. 

We walk under the viaduct and continue our way along the river Bóbr. 

A fountain on the way… refreshment for the hikers.

A snail in the sun… hurry up, little one, the sun will dry you out.

Rocks are scattered in the forest; glaciers have dropped them a long time ago.

A restaurant in the forest, we have lunch here. 

The river Bóbr has been dammed.

 

Siedlęcin – our target with the medieval frescoes

After about 6km we reach the tower house at Siedlęcin. This is, what it looked like in the 18th century.

The tower house and part of the complex are still around. On the first floor of the tower, we find this wall full of frescoes.

The frescoes have been  painted in the years 1320 to 1340, applying the al seco technique on a chalk-bed. The frescoes tell us about the life of knights; this is unique in Europe. 

Christopher watches over the scenery. To the left of Christopher are two couples. One lady wears a hud – she is married. The second lady wears no hood – she is not married. They are standing on top of a line of graves. 

Chrstopher is carrying Christ across the river. He stands in the water, barefeet, and some small fish around his legs indicate, this IS water. 

The scene to the right of Christopher tells the story of Lancelot. Lancelot is a knight of the Round Table of King Artus and he is in love of Queen Guinevere. The adultery causes a civil war, as described in literature of the 12th century. 

On this fresco, Lanzelot is sleeping and Guinevere tries to wake him up. Lancelot has deposited his helmet in the background; the helmet carries a dog sculpture.

Later Lancelot fights a duel with Tarquyn. Lancelot can be recognized by the helmet with the dog scultpure.

Some frescoes decorate the windows such as the coat of arms of the family Redern; they had acquired the tower house in 1354 and owned it for about two hundred years.  

On the fourth floor, guards defended the tower house. The roof construction dates from 1315. It had to be renewed after a fire in the late 16th century. The clay floor provides heat insulation and protection against fires.

The ceiling of the third floor from 1315 has been largely preserved. Only parts of it had to be renewed after the fire of the 16th century.  

While my friend takes the bus back to Jelenia Góra, I walk back, taking a different route and getting lost, though following the green markings. Our car was waiting for us next to the central bus station which helped finding it nevertheless. After a wonderful day, we return to “our” palace, the Palac Stoniszów. 

 

Sources:

  • Frank Schüttig, “Riesengebirge”, Trescher Verlag, Berlin 2022
  • Malgorzata Ulrich-Kornacka, “Niederschlesien”, Via Nova, Wroclaw 2018
  • Dieter Schulze, “Polen der Süden”, Dumont Reisehandbuch, Osfildern 2020
  • Tomasz Turbos, “Polen”, Dumont Kunst-Reiseführer, Hamburg 2011
  • Explanations in the tower house of Siedlęcin

 

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Discovering Silesia: Hirschberg or Jelenia Góra

In May 2023, I am in Silesia again, now with a good friend of mine. We stay south of Hirschberg (Jelenia Góra) at the foot of the Riesengebirge (Karkonosce or Giant Mountains).

 

Staniszów, the castle that is our home for a week

We have selected the castle Staniszów to stay for a week. 

It is located in a beautiful park that offers…

… charming corners.

Until 1945, the castle belonged to the family Reuss from Thuringia. In 2001, it has been acquired by the government. It has been restored and is now a spa hotel with an excellent restaurant. We are very pleased with our selection, we just had to learn, how to master the labyrinth of corridors and stairs in this old building.

 

Around 1100, Hirschberg or Jelenia Góra was a good place for hunting

Hirschberg was founded in 1108. “Boleslaus Distortus urbem struxit (Boleslaw with the distorted mouth constructed the town)”, the inscription on the townhall says. 

He liked the place, because it was good for hunting deer, hence the name “Hirschberg” that the Poles translated literally to “Jelenia Góra”.

 

Now, we find a pretty city centre around the town hall

We enter the city centre next to the St. Anna Chapel. It has been built into the city wall. The Wojanów gate has been removed. The tower is not a belfry. It was the Schildauer tower that protected the gate. 

We stroll along the street of 1st of May. Nice shops here. We enter the wine shop that, besides international wines sells Polish wines from the area around Jelenia Góra and from the Owl Mountains (yes, wine is grown here as well). The street is also a good place to buy fashionable clothes. 

The townhall dominates the market square or Rynek. 

The small gallery connects the townhall with the seven neighbouring houses. The complex has been used by the city government until today.

The townhall and the seven houses are sourrounded by carefully restored medieval buildings.

They show that Jelenia Góra was rich based on trading with cloth, particularly in the 16th century. Various coffee places and restaurants invite to sit down under the arcades.

 

In former times, trams crossed the old city centre. This wagon reminds of that; it is small coffee shop now.

In the museum of the Giant Mountains (Muzeum Karkonoskie), we find a photo of the old tram in action.

 

The church of Saint Erasmus and Pankratius is of gothic style with a baroque decoration

Not far from the Rynek, we enter the Basilica of Erasmus and Pankratius. The gothic vaults seem to rise to heaven.

The wooden altar from the 17th century has been painted to look like marble. 

The choir from the 18th century – beautifully carved – shows clearly: We are at Hirschberg.

Epitaphs from the 17th century decorate the outside walls. Mayors, wealthy citizens, even a Swedish warrior from the war of thirty years.

 

The Gnadenkirche or Church of the Holy Cross

The Gnadenkirche was built as a protestant church under the Habsburgian Emperor Josef I in the beginning of the 18th century. 

Though being a protestant church, it was richly decorated and painted inside. This is the view towards the altar (with the organ above)…

… and towards the entry from the west.

The baptismal font is made out of blue marble.

Around the church, various tombs of German patrician families have been restored.

 

The hotel Europe, formerly “Hotel Drei Berge”

The hotel Europe was one of the main hotels, when Silesia still belonged to Germany. Then it was called “Hotel Drei Berge” and had a roof top terrace. It is still a recommended hotel today. 

We return to our beautifuk castle Staniszów. I have a long swim in the pool (20x8m). After that I enjoy delicious asparagus in the castle restaurant, while my friend has a turbot with couscous and vegetables, also excellent.

 

Sources:

  • Frank Schüttig, “Riesengebirge”, Trescher Verlag, Berlin 2022
  • Malgorzata Ulrich-Kornacka, “Niederschlesien”, Via Nova, Wroclaw 2018
  • Dieter Schulze, “Polen der Süden”, Dumont Reisehandbuch, Osfildern 2020
  • Tomasz Turbos, “Polen”, Dumont Kunst-Reiseführer, Hamburg 2011
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Around Basel – Eiserne Hand with historical boundary stones

Boundary stones tell stories. Where I live, they tell us about the history of the Regio Basilienis. One example are the historical boundary stones along the “Eiserne Hand” (“Iron Hand”) at Riehen.

The “Iron Hand” looks more like a finger. It belongs to Riehen and reaches into Germany, between Lörrach-Stetten and Inzlingen. The “Iron Hand” is about 1.7km long and 50m-300m wide. The boundary line encompasses 3.5km overall (red line around “Herrenwald” and “Maienbühl”). 

Source: Swiss Topo and my own photos

More than 40 boundary stones mark the border along the “Eiserne Hand”. I show some stones on the map above. The oldest stone is from about 1500. 

 

The oldest boundary stone with the red bishop’s crook, about 1500

The oldest boundary stone (#61, about 1500) is nicknamed “Bischofstein“ (Bishop’s Stone). In 1500, the Bishop of Basel resided in Basel, and Riehen was one of his possessions. The stone shows the red bishop’s crook on the Swiss side. It is the only red bishop’s crook along the “Eisernen Hand”. The black bishop’s crook below is the coat of arms of the CITY of Basel that we will see on all the other boundary stones.

 

Coats of arms of the Schönau family NORTH of the “Iron Hand”

On the German side of the Bishop’s Stone #61 from about 1500, we see the coats of arms of the noblemen of Schönau. 

Stone #61 is on the northern border of the “Eisernen Hand” (towards Stetten which is located north of the “Iron Hand”).

Towards the north, the Schönau family marked more boundary stones, such as #51 from the year 1600,…  

… and stone #59 from 1700.

The Schönau were a powerful noble family in the Black Forest. The city of Stetten uses the three rings of the Schönau family in their coat of arms today. 

 

Coats of arms of the Reichenstein family SOUTH of the “Iron Hand”

Along the southern border of the “Eiserne Hand” (towards Inzlingen, located south of the “Iron Hand”), I find five stones with the coats of arms of the noblemen of Reichenstein. They owned Inzlingen as a fief. The years I identified are 1717, 1737 und 1752. 

Examples are the stone #69, with no year, …

… the stone #70 from 1737, …

… and the stone # 71 from 1739.

This is the view of the German settlement Inzlingen that once belonged to the Reichenstein family; I took the photo from the path aolng the border of the “Iron Hand”, in the rain.

By the way: The coat of arms of the Reichenstein family can also be found along the boundary path behind the Chischona and on Reichenstein Castle at Arlesheim. 

 

Boundary stones marked by the Grossherzogtum Baden (Grand Duchy of Baden) (1806-1918)

From 1806 to 1918, the German area bordering the “Eiserne Hand” was called Grossherzogtum Baden (Grand Duchy of Baden). That is why we find the coat of arms of the Grand Duchy with the slanting red bar on yellow background (years I found are 1830/40/42/48/56).

The most beautiful boundary stone is #54 from 1842 with the crown.

The other stones just show the red bar on yellow background such as #65 (no year, I assume mid 19th century).

Later the Grand Duchy invested less effort and marked their stones just with “GB” for “Grossherzogtum Baden”. I found nine stones with “GB” with the years 1888, 1898 and 1900 engraved. This is stone #71a from 1888.

By the way, boundary stones with the red bar or the letters “GB” are found along all the borders of Basel with Germany, for instance also on the Chrischona. 

 

Republic of Baden from 1918 to 1945

From 1918 to 1945, Baden was a Republic; from this time, I found one boundary stone, #60, marked with „RB“ (“Republic of Baden). 

 

Unified as Baden-Württemberg from 1952

In 1952, the German area bordering the “Eiserne Hand” was unified to Baden-Württemberg. I found two boundary stones from 1954 showing a plain “D” on the German side. 

 

The “turning point” marked by the “Dreieckstein” (“triangle stone”)

The “turning point” of the Eiserne Hand is marked by the so-called “Dreieckstein“ (“triangle stone”), stone #64 from 1717. Here the German communities Lörrach-Stetten and Inzlingen meet the Swiss community Riehen.

 

The black bishop’s crook of the City of Basel on the Swiss side

On the Swiss side, Riehen was acquired by the bishop of Basel in1270. After the reformation of 1529, Riehen remained with the city of Basel. The city of Basel has always marked their side of the “Eiserne Hand” with the (black) bishop’s crook, and the crooks vary in shape. Here are some examples. 

The city “owning” the black bishop’s crook can be seen from the boundary path along the “Eiserne Hand”. 

 

Boundary stones tell stories; they tell us about history

Boundary stones tell stories. Where I live, they tell us about the history of the Regio Basilienis. One example are the boundary stones along the “Eiserne Hand” or “Iron Hand”: On the German side they mark the evolution from the possesions of the noblemen of Schönau and Reichenstein (family coats of arms) to the Grand Duchy of Baden (elaborate representations of the coat of arms – slanted red bar on yellow background – and plain “GB”). Later the duchy became the Republic of Baden (RB). Now we border the German state of Baden-Württemberg (plain “D” on the stones). On the Swiss side the stones illustrate the evolvement of Basel as the bishop’s residence (with the red bishop’s crook, before 1529) to the protestant city of Basel (with the various black bishop’s crooks). 

The “Iron Hand” is just one example of historical boundary stones. There are may more examples, such as the Benkenspitz (border with France), the trail to the Schauenburger Fluh (border between Basel and Solothurn) or the border of the Prince Bishopric of Basel such as above Biel-Benken. And – there are many more boundary stones waiting to be explored.

May some of you decide to discover the stones of the “Eiserne Hand” and later turn to the borders with other cantons, with France, with Germany or check, where the historical Prince Bishopric of Basel has left marks. The small monuments are hidden in forests and fields around Basel and they speak to us.  We just have to listen to them.

 

Sources:

  • Wiki  entries about the Eiserne Hand, about Stetten, about the Grossherzogtum and the Republic of Baden
  • Homepage of Stetten and Baden,
  • Information website of the Wasserschlosses Inzlingen,
  • Working material (Arbeitsmaterialien) Heimatkunde Riehen.