Even a football agnostic notices that the upcoming European Championship will be special for the Swiss and the Albanian teams

Though being a football agnostic, I have noticed that the European Championship in France will be special for Switzerland and Albania: Quite some of the players in the Swiss team are from Kosovo-Albania and so are some in the Albanian team – all of them trained in Switzerland. When the two teams play against each other, they might talk in Swiss German. This has been commented by the “Schnitzelbängg”.

“Schnitzelbängg” belong to the Basel carnival (“Fasnacht”) that was celebrated in mid February this year: For three days my town was focused on nothing else but their Fasnacht. There is a lot to say (and love) about the “Basler Fasnacht”: The Morgestraich, the Cortège, the Guggekonzärt, the carpets of Räppli… and there are also the “Schnitzelbängg”.

“Schnitzelbängg” are a kind of minstrels forming small groups that walk from one restaurant to the next in the evenings, presenting (mostly singing) short verses about what has happened during the year – in Basel, in Switzerland and in the world. This year they also commented about the match Switzerland – Albania in the European Championship. Here I am citing some verses, also trying to translate them into English and adding the links to the presentations of the “Käller-Assle” (the cheerful group of “cellar woodlouses”), the “Tam Tam” (The Tam Tam in their beautiful yellow trousers illustrate their verses with requisites they pull out of their large pockets – they won an award for their performance) and the Bataillioons-Glunggi (explanations below).

D Käller-Assle
(the verse about the football match starts at about 4:50 minutes)

Uff em Fuessballfäld dien sich bewege
Zwai Team, wo mit’nand Mundart rede.
Das passiert und isch kai Witz
Schpielt Albanie gege d’Schwyz.

On the football field there are running
Two teams that talk in dialect to each other
This will happen and it is not a joke,
When Albania will play against Switzerland.

Tam Tam
(first verse in the series)

Für d’EM z’Frankrych wird my Schtube zum Fussballstadion.
Drei Match am Daag uff der Kautsch, das bruucht Kondition.
My Frau schleppt’s Bier, pro Schpyl e Gatter. Voll yne, uuse läär.
Numme  Schwyz – Albanie lueg y nit. Do waisch nit, wär isch wär.

During the EM in France my living room will become a football stadium.
Three matches a day on the sofa, that will require physical shape.
My wife will carry the beer, per match a sixpack. Coming full and going empty.
Only Switzerland – Albania I will not watch. Because we will not know, who is who.

Batallioons-Glunggi (they furl the flag of Albania before starting with this verse)
(first verse in the series)

Mir hän ufem Wääg in Dienscht im Zuug die Faane gschwänggt.
Dr Ueli Muurer froggt uns, was das soll was hän der eych do dänggt.
E Skandaal syygs und vor Wuet do kunnt er grad e kli ins schwitze,
Drbyy hän mir nur welle d’Schwizernazi understyytze.

I am explaining the idea of this verse: The “Batailloons-Glunggi” come dressed up as soldats, as they pretend to be the “sloppy guys” (soldats) of the battalion. They are not serious about the “battalion” – this is a carneval/Fasnacht joke. They sing that they take the train to join the military service (many younger citizens are doing some practice days each year). In the train, they wave the Albanian flag. The head of the defence department (Ueli Muurer) asks them angrily, why they are doing so. They apologize (last line): “Well, we just wanted to support the Swiss national football team.”

The Albanian flag is the black eagle with two heads on red. Here it is with the bust of Skanderbeg in Lezha (Albania).

Well, may be – even as a football agnostic – I will watch the match Switzerland – Albania, but then I will not know which team to support.

Driving from Permet to Korça through the mountains takes around five hours on small roads. In the morning we stop at the Ottoman bridge with the thermal springs.

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The  Ottoman bridge of Permet and the thermal springs

Around 1800, the Ottoman bridge near Permet has been built by Ali Pasha, the mighty local administrator of the district of Epirus. On the “Reise Know How” for Albania, there are sheep on this bridge. No sheep here today.

The spring near the bridge is like an infinity pool. The water is said to be good for the skin, Ben says. No one here, except us and a couple from Germany. We have a swim in the lukewarm water.

There are more smaller ponds in the canyon. One of them is against rheumatism – Ben tells me that a priest who was bent from rheumatism got cured here.

We walk up to look into the canyon from above. Ben is worried that there is a hydropower project going on here that might endanger this beautiful spot with the ponds and the bridge.

Near the “infinity pond” we stop at a small coffee place. While the owner serves us coffee, he says: “I gave Tirana up for this place.” He also has a few guest rooms. Well yes, this is a beautiful spot with a lot of touristic potential, and I am happy that I can enjoy it without crowds of people. Ursula tells me that a year ago she was here over a weekend and the pond was full with joyful children enjoying a swim.

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Continuing through the mountains 

On the way to Korça, we now follow the river Vjosa going south.

When we reach the border with Greece, we turn left and travel through hills that remind me a bit of our Swiss Franches Montagnes.  Behind the town Leskovic we overtake a farmer that walks along the side of the road. We look at one another, stop and take him with us. He was on the way to his tomato and pepper fields – about a two hours’ walk from his home. He dreams of growing his fields bigger and exporting his tomatoes. When we reach his fields, he insists on giving us tomatoes while his dogs and his son are welcoming us. Great hospitality.

A few kilometers later, a policeman stops us. Hm, what have we done wrong? It turns out that nothing is wrong. The policeman – having visited his family here in the moutnains – just looks for a way to travel back to Korça, where he works. He joins us in our car.

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Lunch at Sotiro

Now, I am hungry. It is almost three o’clock. Ben knows a great place on the way, the farm Sotiro. The farm  has rooms for about 30 people, a nice camping site with a large swimming pool, cows and horses – and a pond with trouts. This would be a great place to stay and hike in the surrounding hills.

I have a fresh trout, caught from the pond and perfectly spiced and grilled. Delicious.

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Continuing to Korça

We continue our way to Korça. A large team of cyclists from Sweden – not young, they are in their sixties – climb up the turns of the road – sweating. They have started in Korça today. Very brave. Ben greets each of them: “Bravo, you are doing well.”

We need another break and have coffee at the Coloçare, a restaurant that is run by a cousin of our policeman. He admires the owner, because he has constructed and decorated the place all by himself. With a lot of phantasy, as for instance the bear with the guitar shows.

Again we enjoy the great Albanian hospitality. The owner of the restaurant prepares a yoghurt drink for us and serves us butter and bread.

Ben, the owner and the policeman exchange about politics. His son is studying in Italy right now, but will have to finish his studies in Tirana, because Italy is too expensive

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In Korça – beautiful Leon and a delicious meal in the Taverna – THE recommended place in Korça

In Korça we stay in the comfy and pretty guest house Buijtina Leon, right behind the cathedral. Korça is a European city with a boulevard, a beautiful park, well arranged. The restaurants mostly serve fastfood – except the Taverna –  tucked away in a small street. With the German couple, we share a delicious dinner. I have piglet. A regional Cabernet Sauvignon goes well with our meal and we forget the time, as Ben tells us the story of his life after the fall of the iron curtain.

On September 30th 2015 I visited Ohrid. Elena took us through her town. The three main churches that we visited were the cathedral of Sveta Sofia, the church of Sveta Bogorodiza with the adjacent icon museum and the church of Sveti Jovan Kaneo which is said to be the most photographed church. In the churches and in the museum, they sell small booklets with photographs of the icons (Мале туристичке мононрафии ). The booklets are worth buying. I scanned some of the fotos to give an impression of the icons in this blog.

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The cathedral Sveta Sofia or Света Софиja

“Sofia”” means “wisdom”. Probably the cathedral Sveta Sofia was already in use in the 10th century – under Zar Samuel from Bulgaria. This is the view from outside.

Sveta Sofia must have been decorated shortly before the shisma of 1054 (Orthodox and Catholic). Before the schisma Archbishop Leon (1037-1056) mediated between the orthodox and the catholic directions of belief by having painted not only the orthodox archpriests, but also the popes of Rome. Below are the popes of Rome.

Source: “Света Софиja Охрид”, Мале туристичке мононрафии 47, Загреб 1986

Under the Ottomans, the narthex of the cathedral became a mosque and the choir was separated from the mosque. Hidden away in the choir, the 11th century frescoes have been preserved.

The wise Godmother dominates the choir. She seems to dream of her son: He stands in an oval shaped cloud (the son does not sit on her arm – so he has not yet been born, but is just a thought).

Source: “Света Софиja Охрид”, Мале туристичке мононрафии 47, Загреб 1986

Underneath the Godmother are Christ and the 12 apostles at the Last Supper. The scene looks more like the communion service to  me.

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The  church Sveta Bogorodica Perivlepta or Света Вогородица

Our next stop is Sveta Bogorodica Perivlepta. In the Ottoman times, the relics of Sv Kliment were kept here, this is why the church is also known under the name of Sv. Kliment.

Sveta Bogorodiza has remained a church in Ottoman times. This is why the frescoes have been preserved here as well. These frescoes from the late 13th century  are called “Renaissance”. Overcoming the rigid rules of traditional Byzantine icon painting, the artists brought life and perspective to the scenes. One example is the mourning of Christ – the lady in the background throws up her hands.

Source: “Црква Св.  Климент”, Мале туристичке мононрафии 44б Загреб 1988

This early Renaissance movement reminds me of the Brancacci Chapel in Florence that a 100 years later was marked by Masolino’s somewhat rigid fresco about the temptation just across from Massaccio’s vivid representation of the expulsion from the paradise.

The representation of the Last Supper shows Christ twice, first handing out bread and second handing out wine… it is like an “infograph” telling a story.

Source: “Црква Св.  Климент”, Мале туристичке мононрафии 44б Загреб 1988

In the church we also find frescoes painted in the Ottoman times (starting around 1450) that follow again more traditional Byzantine rules of icon painting.

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The Icon Gallery

To round off the overview of the icons, Elena takes me to the icon gallery, just opposite of the Bogorodiza church.

11th century: The icons create distance between humans and saints. The saints look calm and stiff – they are remote holy beings.

Source: “галерия на икони – Орха” (NI Institute for Protection of the Monuments of Culture and Museum)

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12th/beginning of 13th century: The figures become more vivid and more realistic like in this annunciation.

Source: “галерия на икони – Орха” (NI Institute for Protection of the Monuments of Culture and Museum)

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End of 13th to 15th century (1261-1453): This period is called Renaissance of the Paleologues and takes place during the second Byzantine reign. Pespective appears in the icons and the saints are represented as human beings. The distance between the saints and the spectators diminishes. This is the evangelist Matthew, painted in the 14th century.

Source: “галерия на икони – Орха” (NI Institute for Protection of the Monuments of Culture and Museum)

And this is an annunciation also from the 14th century.

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Under Ottoman rule (around 1450 onwards): The saints are again represented in a formal, rigid manner and the icon seems to be “flat”. This is Archangel Michael from the 17th century.

Source: “галерия на икони – Орха” (NI Institute for Protection of the Monuments of Culture and Museum)

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Sveti Jovan Kaneo – the most photographed church

We round off our tour of the three preferred churches in Ohrid with Sveti Jovan Kaneo. It is probably the most photographed church, and it is usually shown with the Ohrid lake in the background.

I also liked the view from below – from here the jagged roof of the central dome can be seen more clearly.

“This is my favorite church”, says Elena, “I love the sunset here. ”

Thank you, Elena, for all these insights into Ohrid and the iconography.

Today it is September 30th. Our plan: Leave Korça and travel to Macedonia to visit the Naum monastery and Ohrid. Then return to Pogradec in Albania.

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Leaving Kroça – a quick stop at their brewery

After a tasty breakfast with local specialties we leave the cosy guesthouse Bujtina Leon. Ben takes me to the brewery of Birra Korça.

The Korça beer is available all over Albania. In August, they have a beer festival, similar to the Oktoberfest in Munich. Some 100’000 persons participate in the beer garden next to the brewery. Does Munich know about their little brother?

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Crossing the border to Macedonia – first stop at St. Naum monastery

This is our first view of the lake Ohrid,  shortly before arriving at Pogradec.

We cross the border and visit the St. Naum monastery…

… with its frescoes.

St, Naum and St. Kliment have brought Christianity to this area – in the 9th century. They were the disciples of Cyrill and Methodius. We will meet St. Kliment in Ohrid.

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Ohrid îs a gorgeous town with narrow streets, Turkish style houses and amazing churches – one for each day of the year

Around noon, we arrive in Ohrid. Elena is waiting for us. She is a translator for English, Italian and Spanish and now works as a tour guide. She loves her city and is full of stories. “Ohrid”, she says proudly, “has many, many churches, one for each day of the year.” “Great, and what about the leap year?” I ask. “We will surely find a 366th church”, she answers smiling mildly. It is true, we come across many, many small churches, and we stop extensively at three churches: The cathedral of Sveta Sofia, the church of Sveta Bogorodiza with the adjacent icon museum and the church of Sveti Jovan Kanoa which is said to be the most photographed church. I will talk about these churches in my next blog.

While walking Elena stops after every few steps to point out some details that otherwise would remain unnoticed. We enter the city at the lower gate.

The streets are narrow. The Turkish houses grow in size from bottom to top.

At the bottom, Elena says, space is needed for the traffic in the streets. And higher up, the houses grow in size to efficiently use the space. Sometimes this pattern is even repeated in the lamps.

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Roman and Greek remains

While walking through the streets of Ohrid we find these Roman mosaics that have been uncovered. Entry free.

The Greek amphitheatre from the second century BC has a wonderful view of the town and the lake. The theatre was covered in Ottoman times. It has been discovered only recently, Elena says. To excavate it, houses had to be removed. Now the theatre hosts performances. I like the view of the lake and the – mostly – Ottoman houses – no construction sins can be found here (why does the Treschner guidebook complain about the houses hindering the view of the lake? These houses have been here for centuries and before the theatre had been rediscovered…).

At various places in town, Elena says: “Here is the theatre”. But the theatre is not “here”, I think. Then again: “Here you can see the theatre.” What does Elena mean? I ask myself. It takes a long time, until I understand: In many churches and houses, columns and stones from the theatre have been reused. Yes, now I understand, why the theatre is omnipresent in Ohrid.

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We are hungry – we have completely forgotten about eating and now it is almost 3 PM

Just across the cathedral Sveta Sofia, we have lunch with regional specialties. To me these Macedonian bites look like mezze. And the fish soup is one of the best fish soups that I have ever eaten – light and with a fresh-sourish taste.

We say good-bye to Elena and exchange business cards. Elena was an excellent and knowledgeable guide.

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Driving back to Pogradec

On the way back to Pogradec we come across the stilt houses. Unfortunately the museum closes already at 4PM.

We are about an hour late. We cross the border to Albania and settle in the five star hotel Enkelana. Well – five stars is a bit much for the place. But it is an interesting time travel back to communist times. Old communist style hotels and American top hotels like Hilton have one thing in common: They lack atmosphere, even if they are a safe bet – we know what we can expect. Ben smiles and shows me the tiles on the floor. They look like an irregular mosaic and have been there since communist times. I later hear that this style is called “Terrazo“.

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Dinner at the Enkelana: Koran, the endemic trout of the Ohrid lake

Ben has eaten in the Enkelana before and recommends to try Koran fish here. Koran  is the trout endemic to the Ohrid lake. Ben say that in communist times they have eaten the Koran fish on the Yugoslavian side – now it is the turn for the Albanians to eat it. I feel a little bad, as I suspect that this trout is in danger of extinction.

Before the hydropower stations, the eel of the Ohrid lake travelled to the Sargasso Sea in the Carribean and their offspring travelled back to the Ohrid lake. But the dams in the Black Drin have resulted in the eels not to come back to the Ohrid lake any more. I am shocked, how we humans are changing the world. Not only here in the Balkans. We made the same experience in Basel – the salmon came back from the sea, until the dams were built – and they have not yet found their way back using the fish ladders that have recently been installed.

Today we travel from Gjirokaster to Permet – and tomorrow we will continue to Korça. The usual tour programs go from Gjirokaster directly to Korça which makes a very long day in the car. I am happy that Jorik from albania2go has scheduled the stop over in Permet in the Vjosa valley which gives me more time to explore the area.

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The Viroi lake near Gjirokaster

Just north of Gjirokaster there is the Viroi lake with willows and newly made paths for hiking and cycling. Ben is very proud of this place and says the Blue Eye Spring originates here .

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The Tepelene well at the road: It is a handy “water pit stop”

Ben tells me that the road to Tepelene has been completed half a year or a year ago. Before it was a sinuous road.  Shortly before Tepelene there is a well. At this “water pit stop”, we fill our water bottles.

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Tepelene – the town of Ali Pasha and the town of mineral water

Ali Pasha, the ruler of the Ottoman district of Epirus around 1800, is said to come from a village near Tepelene. This is his statue.

As always he is shown with a stem and severe expression on his face. It is said that his mother and sister were raped by the inhabitants of the village, when he was a boy. He took revenge, when he had become Pasha and killed all men of the village.

Ali Pasha’s severe look is also on the mineral water that comes from Tepelene.

In his district, Ali Pasha had many fortifications built or reinforced, also the one of Tepelene. This is why the Ottomans perceived him to be dangerous for their empire. He was also nicknamed “The Muslim Bonaparte of Europe”.

Inside the walls, there is a town with small houses and neat gardens.

In a coffee bar, we take a break. The owner asks us to look after his bar and disappears for quite some time… Once he is back, we pass by the mill of Ali Pasha and enter the valley Bençës. For about an hour we walk along broom, salvia and camomile bushes. Ben is worried that a hydropower project might destroy this valley – the construction continues despites protests of NGOs. This is the construction site.

After a good hour’s walk we reach Ali Pasha’s aqueduct. A stunning construction, …

… crossing the valley and the river bed.

There is a farm nearby and a village at the end of the valley – strong,  old Mercedes cars are commuting on the unpaved road. We walk back and continue our way to Permet.

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Lunch with roasted goat

In a small restaurant overlooking the river Drino, we have lunch – roasted goat with yoghurt.

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Crossing the river Vjosa using the iron bridge

Then we cross the river Vjosa…

… beware of the gap between the bridge and the road.

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Bus stations – are they served at all?

Along the river Vjosa we head for Permet. We come across this bus station. A lady is waiting here. Will she ever be picked up by a bus?

We should rather take her with us… She is very happy and we drop her at her house in Permet.

We settle in the hotel Alvora – one of the few hotels here at Permet. Our rooms have a view of the river Vjosa. We go for a short walk climbing the huge rock called Guri I Permëtit.

Tomorrow we plan to visit Banjot e Benjës, the thermal springs, and Canyon of Lengarica. There are vineyards around Permet – visiting a winegrower would be an option here as well.

We have dinner at the friendly restaurant Antigone where the daughter, about 20 years old, serves the guests. She has a talent for languages, speaks English and Turkish and plans to learn German in Germany. I added a recommendation for this restaurant to Tripadvisor. This is their basket offering wines from the area of Permet.

Tomorrow we will continue to Korça.