From San Gerardo de Dota to Cahuita on the Caribbean coast

Good-bye Dantica Lodge in San Gerardo

We wake up with this great view of the forested hills partially hidden in the mist. This is the view from our sleeping room.

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Yes, this place “vaut le détour”, as a Swiss guest had written in the guest book.

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Around Cartago and through fertile hills to the Caribbean coast line.

The Interamericana takes us along the ridge of the Talamanca mountains. The weather has cleared up and we can almost see the Pacific Ocean.  The route around Cartago is easy today. The GPS guides us through Tejar to Paraiso. From here we drive up and down and up and down through fertile hills with coffee and sugar cane plantations as well as with large green  houses. We have a small rest in Cervantes. A coffee and a tortilla with cream refresh us, while we observe the kitchy fountain with the copy of the black madonna from the Basilica in Cartago on top. It must be romantic at night, when the blue lights are on.

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Many, many, many lorries in Moin

It goes up and down and up and down… all in all for about 200km, until we reach the coastal planes of the Caribbean. Banana plantations and palm trees along the road. And many, many lorries on the road. More and more, the closer we come to Moin, the main port of Costa Rica. What we see in Moin are piles and piles of containers labeled “Chiquita”‘, “Del Monte” or “Hamburg Süd”.

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To Cahuita and the guest house Playa Grande with a GPS detour

Happy to have overcome this busy port of Moin, we already see our target, Cahuita, in in our minds, but then the GPS goes crazy and directs us around Limón (which we like) and finally to a shaky railway bridge (!) and behind this we are in a dead end street. No, this must be wrong… I do not like this railway bridge, but I have to drive over it again to get back. Ursula switches to navigating with the map. About half an hour later, we ring at the door bell of the guest house Playa Negra in Cahuita and are welcomed in French Québecois. We settle in a cosy and spacy cottage with this veranda looking into a beautiful tropical garden.

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It is hot and we immediately jump into the pool.

With seafood in the nearby Reggae restaurant we end our day, amidst tourists taking a rest here in Cahuita… most of them decorated with tattoos.

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A day on the beach of Cahuita with its national park

We wake up early and enjoy the beautiful garden, together with some agoutis, with colibris and with a black bird with a red back (must be the Cacicus Uropygialis or in English scarlet-rumped cassique and German Scharlachbürzelkassike – I have never heard of this bird). The red cat of the house also joins us.

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After a refreshing swim (it is already hot in the morning), we go for a walk in the Cahuita National Park. The path is in the shade – good –

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and gives a view of the beach.

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We see an iguana high up in the trees and a herd of white face monkeys joggling in the branches and eating.

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While watching this monkey, I hear someone say in Berndeutsch: “Look, it wastes half of its food…”

An animal is screaming angrily… it was this rancoon. It still looks angry and I do not go too close.

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We have lunch in the restaurant “Sobre Olas”, in their shady garden above the waves (olas) hitting a stony beach with palm trees.

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After more swimming and relaxing in “our” garden, we have dinner in Ricki’s restaurant in Cahuita center. The place is full of tourist life. I notice, how many black people are here, totally different from the rest of the country. They came here to work for the construction of the railways and to work in the fields. Only after the Civil War (1948), they received the right to vote and the right to move freely in the country. A long story of suffering.

 

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