In May 2023,  I spend a week near Jelenia Góra in Silesia exploring the surroundings. One day we visit Cieplice Zdrój (Bad Warmbrunn). 

In the 17th/18th century, Bad Warmbrunn became a well-known health resort in Silesia. In the 17th century, the queen of Poland, wife of Sobieski, stayed here with her entourage of 1500 persons. In the 19th century, Bad Warmbrunn was one of the most famous resorts of Germany, visited by artists, high nobility, statesmen and even by the (later) US president  John Quincy Adams (1825-1829).  

The main centre is called Plac Piastowski. Spa guests and day tourists stroll along. There are souvenir shops and inviting restaurants. 

The houses are well maintained. In the background we can see the red tower of Saint John’s church.  

In the church of Saint John the Baptist, the high altar has been painted by Michael Willmann (1687); he is sometimes called the Raffael of Silesia. His painting shows Maria Assumption. 

Already in 1281 the Knights Hosipitallers (Johanniter) had founded a hospice that was probably visited by guests for healing.  

The Schaffgotsch acquired Warmbrunn in 1381 and settled here in 1400. Their castle, completed in 1788 in early neoclassical style, dominates the Plac Piastowski. 

Today it is part of the technical university of Wroclaw. 

Legend tells us that in 1175, a deer  cured his wounds at a warm fountain, after having been shot by hunters. The hunters built a hunting lodge, and this is how the spa resort originated (by legend).

Next to the palace, this cheerful “deer couple” may remind of the legend. They seem to have recovered well in Cieplice. 

Next to the Schaffgotsch Palais is the entrance to the spa gardens.

We enter, pass by the Pawilon Edward,…

… and enjoy the romantic corners. 

The visual axis to the Schneekoppe or Sniezka has been beautifully set up with fountains and benches.

For several centuries high nobility and statesmen have strolled along the alleys of this park. We meet some of them….

… dressed up like a hundred years ago.

We return to the Plac Piastowski and have a delicious ice cream.

At Cieplice, I notice again that the Polish fill the German past of Silesia with their life and take care of it. 

 

Sources:

• Frank Schüttig, “Riesengebirge”, Trescher Verlag, Berlin 2022
• Malgorzata Ulrich-Kornacka, “Niederschlesien”, Via Nova, Wroclaw 2018
• Dieter Schulze, “Polen der Süden”, Dumont Reisehandbuch, Osfildern 2020
• Tomasz Turbos, “Polen”, Dumont Kunst-Reiseführer, Hamburg 2011
• Arne Frank, “das schlesische Elysium, Burgen, Sclösser, Herrenhäuser und Parks im Hirschberger Tal”, Potsdamer Bibliothek östliches Europa Kulturreisen 2004.